Cotogna

Italian · $$$

One of San Francisco’s hardest restaurant challenges may be finding someone who doesn’t like this Jackson Square winner, the sibling restaurant to the chef Michael Tusk’s three-Michelin-starred Quince. The coaster-size raviolo di ricotta — a single pillowy pocket that oozes tawny egg yolk when punctured — is the most photogenic of the pastas, but all are handmade and superb. The choices largely rotate, and it’s hard to go wrong, whether with crab tagliolini, corn triangoli or garganelli with morels and English peas. Mains like Petrale sole and bistecca alla Fiorentina are also very good, but get your pasta fix first. The only difficulty can be getting a table, though walking in for a late lunch is a decent bet.